The Rules for Shopping for (& Finding!) a Vintage Wedding Dress

By Georgina Clatworthy

I love vintage clothing! There is something so special & unique about a vintage wedding dress & if it comes from within your family, sentimentality also.  Every bride wants to feel beautiful & special on their wedding day & a vintage wedding dress can add the extra special touch most brides are looking for.  Vintage wedding dresses are often classically made, meaning the workmanship is of a quality only found on top drawer designer gowns of today, but without the hefty price tag.  But how exactly do you go about looking for a vintage wedding dress & what should you look out for before you buy one?

The rules for buying a vintage wedding dress

Avoid dresses that have stains or need repairs A stain that has lain untreated for 20+ years is unlikely to be removable now.  Modern chemical removers are too harsh to use on delicate vintage fabrics, you will also find it an impossible task to match a vintage fabric with a modern one, so removing the stained fabric to replace with a new piece is not an option.  Repairs can be difficult, even for the most skilled of seamstresses.  Whilst it may not be difficult to fix a zip or change a set of buttons, repairing tears, splits or rips can be impossible.  In some case, all may not be lost.  If the dress has a lot of fabric in it i.e. it has a very big, full skirt it may be possible to remove any damaged fabric & hide the repair with the excess fabric.  If you fall in love with a dress which is damaged, get some expert advice on repairing it first.  But be aware that you may have to pay a premium for a skilled seamstress to fix it.

Be wary of the oldest dresses It is sad, but fabric does deteriorate over time, especially natural fabrics such as silk which can suffer terribly if it hasn’t been stored with care.  However, vintage wedding dresses do fair better than most similar garments as they have probably only been worn the once & have been packed away with great care – my grandmothers silk gown from the 1940’s is packed with a bar of soap to soak up any moisture which may ingress the box in which it is stored.  Be realistic about what will fit you as well.  Women today are big by comparison with the women who probably first wore these dresses.  My grandmother had a 16″ waist when she got married & she also wore 16 petticoats underneath her dress. 

Avoid anything made before 1900 & I would also advise avoiding anything made between 1900 & 1930 as they may just be too delicate to be worn.  I would suggest looking at gowns from 1930 onwards, with the 1950’s possibly being the best era for a gown in good order.  Do some research on vintage gowns & what you need to look for.  Check the strength of the seams & fastenings, is the fabric strong in places where you could expect high wear such as under the arms – which often split on vintage dresses & the stitching where the skirt joins the bodice.  Some dresses could be stabilized with additional fabric added underneath, but be prepared to pay the seamstress extra.  

Figure out your budget before you shop This is a golden rule for any wedding dress purchase, not just a vintage one!  Beware of falling in love with something you can’t afford.

You will not wear your regular dress size in a vintage dress. As I mentioned before, women today are not the same size & shape as those before us.  We have become taller & wider, whilst the clothing industry has adjusted its sizes downwards.  Take all your measurements with you when you go shopping & check them carefully against any dresses you see.  If you are buying online & measurements are not inclusive enough, ask the seller to provide them for you.  You will need to measure – waist, shoulder width (across the back), bust, arm length (for gowns with sleeves), your height, hips & neck circumference should any dress have a high necked collar.  Make sure the dress will fit comfortably & that you will not be squeezing yourself in to it. Many vintage gowns were designed to be worn with a corset or girdle which would have cinched the wearer in, so it may be an idea to consider a corset too so that the dress will fit properly & look right.  As a guide expect vintage gown sizes to run on the small side – typically 0-6 although you may find some in larger sizes up to 10-12. 

Consider buying a reproduction, or making one If you are after a vintage look, then you could consider buying a reproduction dress or having one made.  These days there are a wealth of resources online for vintage dress patterns & designs.  Make sure you find a good seamstress if you cannot make it yourself.

Where to buy a vintage wedding dress You may be lucky enough have a vintage clothing store nearby, but for many EBay & other websites remain the best place for vintage gowns.  Another option is charity or thrift stores which often carry secondhand wedding dresses from the 70’s & 80’s & sometimes older.  Ask within your family as well if anyone has a vintage wedding dress they would be willing to let you wear.  However, there is a disadvantage with this – if you don’t like it you will need to find a way to say no diplomatically!